In medieval and ancient philosophy the Wheel of Fortune, or Rota Fortunae, is a symbol of the capricious nature of Fate. The wheel belongs to the goddess Fortuna (Greek equivalent Tyche) who spins it at random, changing the positions of those on the wheel: some suffer great misfortune, others gain windfalls.
This one with Christ in the centre, is a 14th century manuscript presently in the British Library and allows us to work out the features of the faded shapes on the wall in front of us. The one on the wall was painted almost a thousand years ago in this teeny tiny Norman church in a little hamlet called Kempley which we visited today in Gloucestershire. It’s about an hours drive and very close to Ledbury with the Malvern hills in the very near distance.
St Mary's church has some of the most important and well preserved medieval wall paintings in England. It was built around 1130.
Radiating outwards the ten spokes of a wheel each end in circular medallions and illustrate the ten ages of man. Infancy, boyhood, adolescence, young manhood, and maturity represented by a king. The decline, illustrated with an old man with cane, being led by a child, attended by a doctor, his funeral, and tomb. Four figures in the corners representing infancy, youth, old age, and decrepitude. Their physical characteristics and poses recall the rise and fall of the wheel of life.
The Easter scene was harder to make out as it has so faded over time and worse yet some act of Protestant vandalism saw the entire place whitewashed requiring a painstaking piece of work to restore all you can see. But it was still really quite wonderful.
Painted above the chancel arch is a unique depiction of an early medieval Easter ritual. During the Easter service, four clerics re-enacted the story of the three Marys (Mary of Cleopas, Mary Magdalen and Mary the mother of the apostles James and John) visiting Jesus's empty tomb.
Unlike similar images, this painting shows the re-enactment ritual itself. An angel stands to the left of the three Marys. A white cloth decorated with stars is draped over a portable wooden frame, representing the sepulchre.
This is one of the few surviving 12th century paintings in the nave. Joseph could make out more than his mother so I don’t know where that now places his mother on the wheel but probably somewhere on the right hand side now.
In the stunning little chancel the twelve disciples are seated either side in sixes looking up at Christ and the Apocalyptic across the ceiling. And included in the chancel are two stunning stained glass windows which aren’t medieval but are still very old featuring Our Lady.
A wonderful place to be on Good Friday. Peaceful empty quiet and still spiritual enough to encourage me to recite a Hail Mary under her window kneeling by the little “altar” with Joseph on this Good Friday 2024.
The exceptional decoration in this church is due to the patronage of one of the wealthiest Norman families in England, the de Lacys.
Walter de Lacy fought with William the Conqueror at the battle of Hastings and gained land in England and Wales. He was the chief benefactor of Gloucester abbey. In keeping with that whole idea of the capricious nature of fate it’s worth noting that he died in 1085, reputedly falling from a ladder while supervising building work at Gloucester abbey.
Imagine that. Surviving a bloody and famous world changing battle in 1066 only to fall off a ladder.
It’s a funny old life.
Photos don’t do it justice the video is better though every platform runs videos differently so unfortunately I should have held the iPhone landscape not portrait sorry.
Step into another world with me nonetheless.
What a unique wonderful church. The video was great too, enhanced by the atmospheric steps!
That is a must visit. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you for this. I needed this today. I've been working so darned hard I haven't had a chance to read your posts! I'll catch up this weekend.
This beautiful chapel reminds me of my trip to Bergamo, Italy in 2012 with my older daughter, who was singing soprano solo in Pergolesi's "Stabat Mater." We took a day trip to Monte Isola, where alleyways up steep hills led to plain-looking entrances that opened to magnificent little cathedrals.
The Circle of Life was poignant and something I didn't know about as an artistic tradition. I saw Marcel Marceau in performance twice, and his birth-to-death pantomime was incredibly moving. You can find examples of it on YouTube, but the live performances were longer IIRC and just amazing.